Okay, so this has absolutely nothing to do with the GIMP. However, I thought others may find my binary clock design interesting.
I have been a computer geek ever since I laid hands on one. I got hooked in the fifth grade when my dad taught me AppleSoft BASIC. A couple of years later, I found a book on 6502 assembly language programming. I did not have an assembler, but I found that with careful planning and some math, I could POKE my assembly language subroutines into the computer and run them. (Needless to say, I wrote very tiny subroutines!) I was intrigued that I could control a computer at such a low level. I was especially fascinated by binary numbers. I am not sure why I was drawn to them, but I just thought they were cool. In fact, I thought that the coolest thing to have would be a clock that displayed the time in binary.
Fast forward to 2001. I was reading an article on how digital clocks work and read the statement, "What you have at this point is a 'second hand' for your clock, with the output of the second hand appearing in binary. If you would like to create a clock that displays the time in binary, then you are set!" This rekindled my interest in aquiring a binary clock.
Unfortunately, ThinkGeek was not selling binary clocks yet, and while ElectronicsUSA.com and HobbyTron both sold "binary" clock kits that you can buy fully assembled, they are BCD clocks—not binary. The only place I found that offered fully assembled real binary clocks was ESP Technology. These clocks looked nice, could be ordered with any color LEDs and orientation, and were priced quite reasonably. Unfortunately, they appear to no longer be in business, as they never responded to any of the email inquiries I sent. Thus, if I wanted a binary clock, I would have to design and build it myself. The only problem was that I knew nothing of electronics, so I bought an electronics learning lab from Radio Shack and taught myself.
Want to see pretty pictures of binary clocks? Visit my gallery of binary clocks built by myself and others.
The circuit schematic is shown below. Click on the picture for a full size image (1842x1384 pixels).
The circuit can be divided into four major areas:
| Ref | Part Name |
|---|---|
| B1 | bridge rectifier |
| C1-C2 | 470uF electrolytic capacitor |
| IC1 | 7805 +5 volt regulator |

This is a typical regulated 5-volt power supply, so there is not much to explain. AC input is connected via JP1. I am using a 9VAC transformer as the power source. Specifically, I am using a 9VAC 500mA wall transformer (Jameco part #100061). For my first clock, I used what I had lying around, which happened to be a 9VAC 1000mA transformer off a US Robotics 56K modem. I think that ended up on the clock I gave to my brother. For reasons explained later, I used big capacitors here, but smaller capacitors (220uF for C1 and 10uF for C2) will also work.
| Ref | Part Name |
|---|---|
| D1 | 1N750-type 4.7V Zener diode |
| IC2 | 74HC14N Hex inverting Schmitt trigger |
| IC3 | 4082N dual 4-input AND gate |
| V1 | 74393N dual 4-bit (0-15) ripple counter |
| R18 | 1k resistor |

I use the 60Hz AC sine wave as my time base. (The AC input is shown coming from the left.) A Schmitt trigger converts the waveform into a square wave. The Schmitt trigger also does an excellent job of filtering out any noise from the AC signal, and the design needed a minimum of wiring and only two extra components: a 4.7V Zener diode and a 1K resistor.
To generate a 1Hz signal, I divide the 60Hz signal down by a factor of 60 using a 74393N dual 4-bit counter. The two halves of the chip are wired together, creating an 8-bit counter. When the counter reaches 60 (111100 in binary), a 4-input AND gate resets it to 0. This reset signal is used as the 1Hz clock signal (shown exiting out the top of the diagram).
If you have 50Hz AC where you live, it should be a trivial task to modify this circuit to divide by 50 (110010 in binary). Basically, pin 4 of V1 should go to pins 4 and 5 on IC3.
I chose a 4082N chip for the 4-input AND gate. I chose this part because it was readily available to me. However, if you do not have access to a 4082N chip, you should be able to use a 74LS21 chip instead. It has a different pinout than the 4082N, but it should work fine.
Some people have asked why I did not use a 32K clock crystal. There were several reasons. First, I was new to electronics, and using the AC as the time base was a simpler design for me to understand. (Another plus was that it used the exact same divide circuit as the seconds and minutes counters.) Second, it required fewer parts. Third, the other clock designs I was using for reference (the HowStuffWorks.com article and Mike Harrison's nixie tube clock) were using the AC, which gave me a warm fuzzy that the design would work.
| Ref | Part Name |
|---|---|
| IC4 | 4082N dual 4-input AND gate |
| LED1-LED6 | LED |
| V2 | 74393N dual 4-bit (0-15) ripple counter |
| R1-R6 | resistor for LED |

The logic for the seconds and minutes displays is the same as the 1Hz clock generator. It divides its input by 60. The only difference is that it also displays its state on six LEDs.
To simplify the design, my binary clock is a 24-hour clock. Therefore, the hours display divides its input by 24 (11000 in binary). The 4-input AND gate needs to be wired slightly differently to do this. Also, only five LEDs are needed to display the hour.
| Ref | Part Name |
|---|---|
| D2 | 1N4148-type diode |
| R19 | 10k resistor |

To set the time, I use the 1Hz time base to drive the hours and minutes counters at a higher frequency. The 1Hz time base is connected to the middle pin of JP2, which is connected to off-board pushbutton switches. The output of the "minutes" switch is connected to pin 1, and the output of the "hours" switch is connected to pin 3. (Note that if JP2 is accidentally wired backwards, the worst that will happen is that the switches will have reversed meanings.)
A 1N4148 diode is placed between the switch and the previous display counter to avoid resetting the display counter. (Otherwise, setting the hours would also clear the minutes display.) A 10k resistor is also placed between the switch and ground to prevent human body capacitance from inducing electrical noise into the counter.
In retrospect, I should have added a decoupling capacitor to each chip. In some electrical environments, when there is a large current draw on the board (when a lot of LEDs are lit), the counters will occasionally skip.
While checking my site statistics, I noticed that a lot of people find this page by searching for "binary clock kit." I have also been contacted by many people looking to buy a binary clock kit.
Though there does seem to be interest in binary clock kits, I have decided not to sell binary clock kits. However, I do plan to sell printed circuit boards in the future.
You can order the parts directly from Jameco. Here is the parts list. Note that Jameco sells some items in bundles. For example, capacitors are sold in multiples of 10, and resistors are sold in bags of 100. Even so, your order total for all the parts would be around $17 plus $6-8 shipping.
| Ref | Jameco P/N | Order Quantity | Part Name |
|---|---|---|---|
| B1 | 178124 | 1 unit | bridge rectifier |
| C1-C2 | 30497 | 10 unit (sold in 10) | 220uF 25V electrolytic capacitor |
| C3-C9 | 151116 | 10 unit (sold in 10) | 0.1uF 50V decoupling capacitor for each chip |
| D1 | 179039 | 10 unit (sold in 10) | 1N5230B 4.7V Zener diode 0.5W |
| D2-D3 | 36038 | 10 unit (sold in 10) | 1N4148 diode |
| IC1 | 51262 | 1 unit | 7805T 5V 1A volt regulator |
| IC2 | 251045 | 1 unit | 74HC14 hex inverting Schmitt trigger |
| IC3-IC4 | 676123 | 2 unit | CD4082 dual 4-input AND gate |
| LED1-LED17 | 253745 | 20 unit (sold in 10) | red 5mm LED 2.2V 10mA 3.5mcd [1] |
| Q1 | 38375 | 10 unit (sold in 10) | 2N3906 transistor [2] |
| R1-R17 | 31165 | 1 bag of 100 | 470 ohm 1/4W 5% resistor [3] |
| R18 | 29663 | 1 bag of 100 | 1K 1/4W 5% resistor |
| R19-R20 | 29911 | 1 bag of 100 | 10K 1/4W 5% resistor |
| V1-V4 | 45874 | 4 unit | 74HC393 dual 4-bit binary counter |
| 100061 | 1 unit | 9VAC 500mA transformer [4] |
Notes:
If you plan to solder your clock, you will need some interconnects. (Note that this will cost an additional $10-11.)
| Jameco P/N | Order Quantity | Part Name |
|---|---|---|
| 526192 | 10 unit (sold in 10) | 14-pin IC socket |
| 108337 | 10 unit (sold in 10) | 1x2 male header |
| 109575 | 10 unit (sold in 10) | 1x3 male header |
| 100811 | 10 unit (sold in 10) | 1x2 connector housing |
| 157382 | 10 unit (sold in 10) | 1x3 connector housing |
| 100765 | 20 unit (sold in 10) | female crimp pin (you will not need this many, but buy extra!) |
If you have built a binary clock, please contact me to send me a picture!